The Patek Philippe World Time Watch

August 27th, 2010

The Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5130R in rose gold.

Elevated to cult status by seasoned travelers and collectors of extraordinary mechanical watches, the Patek Philippe World Time features two rotating discs  that simultaneously and continuously display the time in all 24 time zones. The ingenious complication, in the 1930s, took a new step forward in terms of functionality in 2000. A unique mechanism now enables it’s owner, when changing time zones, to correct all the displays collectively by a single pressure on a push button, without this affecting the rate of the accuracy of the movement by even a second. This patented system is exclusive to Patek Philippe’s World Time watches. The Reference 4130 combines an elegant round case in the Calatrava style with a dial that is inspired by the dials of the first world Time watches, but is subtly reinterpreted. It’s center is adorned with a guilloched sunburst pattern.  The ring shaped hour hand is also reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s original World Time models and is reserved exclusively for this type of timepiece. The case diameter of the Reference 5130 is a contemporary  39.5 mm. The Patek Philippe Reference 5130 comes on alligator strap with a fold over clasp.

The Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5131G

Wanderlust begins from the first glance at the dial of the magnificent Reference 5131, whose city ring rotates around a colorful map in cloisonne enamel.  The timepiece in yellow or white gold with it’s bezel engraved with the words “Patek Philippe” and “Geneve”, perpetuates a rare artistic tradition in keeping with the history  of the Patek Philippe world time watch originally introduced in 1930s-1940s. The precious, handcrafted dial, created individually using a centuries old technique, is reserved for timepieces produced in a limited series. It transforms each watch into a unique work of art. The version in yellow gold shows a map of Europe and the Americas, while the model in white gold, introduced in 2009, depicts Europe and Asia. The Patek Philippe world Time Reference 5131 comes with a fold over clasp and a sapphire exhibition back allowing it’s owner to view it’s mechanical movement.

The Patek Philippe 5131 is made in limited numbers and is sure to be highly sought after by collectors the world wide.

A closer look at the Patek Philippe World Time mechanism.

Not to be overlooked, the World Time self-winding  caliber  240 HU is a work of art. Superbly simple,the setting mechanism is based on an ingenious coupling system for which Patek Philippe filled Patent number CH 693 191 in 2000.  A single button simultaneously advances the city disc and the hour hand for local time, without disturbing the rate accuracy of the movement by even a second.

Harold Freeman Jewelers is a Patek Philippe Authorized Dealer . If you would like to know more about the Patek Philippe World Time,  please stop by our shop or give us a call at 866-240-7366. One of our expert associates will be happy to answer any questions you might have.

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The Fine Art of Patek Philippe Cloisonne Enamel Clocks

June 30th, 2010

Patek Philippe Cloisonne Enamel Clocks

Patek Philippe is most well known for their wonderful wrist watches which feature complicated movements but the company  also has a reputation for making extremely fine cloisonne enamel clocks. The exquisite quality of Patek Philippe workmanship is what has distinguished the firm’s timepieces for over 400 years. Still to date, in order to keep the  fine tradition of cloisonne enameling alive, a small team of specialists from Patek Philippe continue to carry out the rare art, which, other than being technically difficult, does not forgive errors. Their work is recognised as worthy of the great masters of the Geneva school.

The Pendulettes Dôme of Patek Philippe are decorated in cloisonné enamel. According to this technique, the coloured powder enamels are deposited on the inside of enclosures in string or gold ribbon that mark the outlines of the design. Various decorations can require up to 20 metres of ribbon in 22 carat gold in order to realise the enclosures aimed at containing the coloured enamel. It is possible to obtain very  interesting effects  and colorsby mixing the colous inside of the enclosures. Given it is normal in the case of working with enamel, to decorate the surfaces which are subsequently vitrified in the furnace, with the instructions to  apply an enamelled surface inside the metallic walls of the pendulette  to avoid the distortion of the metal and the consequent cracking of the decorations.

Reference 1551 “Lion and leopards hunting antelopes”

Patek Philippe Ref. 1551 "Lions and leopards hunting antelopes" clock.

A limited edition timepiece, made by Patek Philippe. The decoration of the pendulette is inspired by various renowned paintings of the Italian painter Antonio Ligabue (1899-1965). The dome depicts a leopard inspired by the painting by Ligabue “Leopard with the antelope”, wooden oil painting, and dated 1939/1949. The lateral curved panels recall the paintings of the same painter “Leopard with the sky at sunset”, wooden oil painting, undated and “Lion that attacks two antelopes”, oil painting on faesite, dated 1953/1954.
Antonio Ligabue lived the most important part of his life in Gualtieri (in the province of Reggio Emilia).

Those who have been fortunate enough to visit the Patek Philippe museum in Geneva, Switzerland know first hand to what extent enamel watches and clocks are as an essential part of Patek Philippe’s history. Patek Philippe displayed a dazzling collection of cloisonne enamel clocks and watches at Basel World 2010.  One of the most interesting examples of the fine art of cloisonne enameling was the Patek Philippe World Time Reference 5131. Also on display was a limited edition set of watches under the reference 5077P.  The timepieces featured depictions of  ”Native Indians of the Great Plains”. The timepieces were made from platinum and featured the ultra thin self-winding caliber 240 mechanical movement.

Reference 1552 “Flowers”

Patek Philippe 1552 "Flowers" Cloisonne Enamel Clock

Another limited edition timepiece made by Patek Philippe. The decoration of the pendulette is inspired by a renowned painting by Antonio Ligabue (1899-1965). The dome and three curved sides reproduce a vase of flowers with butterflies, bees and other bunches and garlands of flowers inspired by the “Vase of flowers”, cloth oil painting by this painter, dated 1960/1961. Antonio Ligabue lived the most important part of his life in Gualtieri (in the province of Reggio Emilia). Notice how the flowers seem to bloom before your very eyes. This is the magic of cloisonne enameling that only Patek Philippe can create.

As one can see from these photos, the enameler is an artist in every sense of the word. It is the enamelers special relationship with the art of glass, metals and fire that bring us the fantastic objects we know as cloisonne.

Harold Freeman Jewelers is an Authorized Agent for Patek Philippe and other brands of fine Swiss watches.

For more information please call 866-240-7366.

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Patek Philippe Jewelry and Cuff links Collection

June 23rd, 2010

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ring

Patek Philippe offers an exclusive choice of jewelry items for both Ladies and Men which create exquisite ensembles with the matching watches, as well as a choice of branded jewelry which will complement elegantly any Patek Philippe timepiece. The jewelry line expresses the creativity and skills of Patek Philippe’s designers and artisans. Made in respect of the tradition and high quality of its precious timepieces, the same care and attention is perpetuated in the creation of its jewelry collections beautifully crafted by hand. Patek Philippe’s jewelry line is proposed in 18 carat yellow, white or rose gold and is adorned with flawless diamonds or precious stones such as onyx, lapis lazuli or agate.

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ring

Popular Patek Philippe jewelry styles include the Ladies Twenty~4 collection available in 18Kt white or rose gold. The Twenty~4 collection was created for the refined, active woman of today.  The Twenty~4 collection offers matching rings and earrings. The Twenty~4 collection of watches and jewelry may be worn on all occasions.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Cufflinks Ref. 9083R

Patek Philippe offers a wonderful selection of cuff links for men. The Patek Philippe Calatrava cross cufflinks come in several different styles all of which  feature the Calatrava cross motif. They are available in 18Kt white, yellow or rose gold. Calatrava cross cuff links are also available with black onyx and diamonds (shown below).

Patek Philippe Calatrava Cufflinks Ref. 9108G

The Patek Philippe Nautilus sports watch collection has matching cuff links. The styling of these handsome cuff links derived from the universal shape of a port hole found on virtually on all maritime vessels. The Nautilus cufflinks have a classic, elegant look that is suitable for any occasion (see image below).

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Cufflinks Ref. 9057G

If you would like to know more about Patek Philippe jewelry and cuff links please give us a call at 866-240-7366 or drop us a line at: info@haroldfreemanjewelers.com

Harold Freeman Jewelers is an Authorized Dealer for Patek Philippe Watches.

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The Watch as a Work of Art: The Patek Philippe Worldtime Ref. 5131

June 17th, 2010

The Patek Philippe Worldtime Ref. 5131J in 18K yellow gold

The Patek Philippe multiple time zone watches belong to the category of so-called useful complications. They serve their owners well with practical functions of relevance in contemporary everyday life. A World Time watch indicates the hour in all major cities at a glance. The local time indicated by the hour and minute hands applies to the location on the city disk that is directly aligned with 12 o’clock. The crown is used to set the correct time in conjunction with the 24-hour ring, so a distinction can be made between 4 am and 4 pm. Now, switching from one time zone to another is accomplished simply by pressing the button at 10 o’clock. Every time it is pressed, the hour hand will advance by one hour while the city ring and the 24-hour ring will rotate counterclockwise by one hour (equivalent to one time zone). Pressing the button 24 times emulates a trip around the world and a return to the point of departure.
This mechanism was devised by the gifted Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier in the early 1930s. He offered his invention to Patek Philippe first and in 1959, the company protected it with Swiss Patent No. 340 191. Subsequently, the ingenious inventor created another mechanism for the Genevabased manufacture. It was able to display two time zones simultaneously. In the late 1990s, this second invention inspired the development of the Calatrava Travel Time. With a solution patented in 1999, Patek Philippe further optimized the caliber 240 HU (Heure Universelle = World Time) movement by totally isolating the World Time mechanism with the city and 24-hour rings from the going train of the watch. Thus, when the mechanism is switched from one time zone to the next, the accuracy of the movement and the progression of the minute hand are not affected. Caliber 240 HU is an ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement that features a 22K gold mini-rotor recessed in the plate. It beats with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz). In 2000, Patek Philippe used this movement to reintroduce the World Time watch into its standard collection; it proved to be an instant bestseller.

Watches for connoisseurs and collectors

A handmade "Europe/Asia" colisonne' dial

The exclusivity of Patek Philippe watches is no doubt the principal reason why Patek Philippe’s 1940s and 1950s World Time watches fetch higher prices at international auctions than any other wristwatches. Bids in the magnitude of several hundred thousand Swiss francs are now the rule, but the record today is still held by an early platinum model that changed hands in 2002 for the fantastic sum of 6.6 million francs (in excess of US$6 million).
Models showcasing a small, hand-made cloisonné enamel miniature in the center of the dial are particularly coveted. The eclectic motifs range from clusters of palm trees to solitary lighthouses, but the most popular ones are colorful, stylized world maps because they best match the purpose of the timepiece. Such a map also adorns the dial of the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5131, finally giving collectors the renewed opportunity to find a watch in this category within the company’s current portfolio.
Due to the complex processes involved in the making of cloisonné enamel dials, only a small number of Ref. 5131 watches will be available each year.

The art of cloisonné enamelling

In addition to Geneva enamel and champlevé enamel, cloisonné enamel is one of the three classic techniques traditionally used to decorate watches and dials. The motifs are always silhouettes whose contours define the shapes of the “cloisons” (French for partition, or cell) that ultimately contain the differently colored zones of the finished enamel opus. A characteristic shared by all enamelling techniques is the stunning brilliance of the colors: unlike paintings that use conventional pigments, they do not fade and retain their luster for centuries.

The enameler is an artist in every sense of the word.

A cloisonné enamel piece begins as a wafer of copper or gold into which the contours of the motif are scored by hand. Subsequently, the lines are retraced with very thin, flattened gold wire. Like a dainty ribbon standing on its edge, the wire is bent with tweezers to follow the contours and then secured in a first firing; eventually, the entire drawing is composed of a number of cloisons which now need to be filled with the enamel mass. Enamel consists of finely crushed glass ground to powder. The addition admixture of various metal oxides produces the colors when the glass is melted. After the powder has been filled into the cloisons, the work of art can be fired in a special furnace at temperatures between 850 and 900°C. To prevent distortion, the reverse side of the wafer must also be coated with a layer of enamel, the so-called: “contre-email”.
Because the metal oxides added to the powder can change their color at different temperatures, enamel work can involve numerous firings passes. The end result is a colorfully arrayed glass motif from which the gold wires forming the cells protrude. These wires are then polished down to the level of the glass layers, and in the final phase, the entire work of art is protected by the fondant, a colorless, highly transparent layer of enamel applied in a last firing process. At the end of every firing pass, the enamel miniature must be allowed to slowly cool to room temperature in a precisely controlled manner. Otherwise, thermal stresses could cause the hard, fused glass to crack.
Thus, The art of cloisonné enameling not only requires virtuosity and a highly developed sense of aesthetics. The artisans who master it must also be fully aware of the technical, physical, and chemical processes involved in preparing, mixing, applying, and firing the enamel mass. Until the early 20th century, cloisonné enameling, champlevé enameling, and miniature painting according to the acclaimed Geneva enameling traditions were precious skills needed to embellish watches and other luxury objects. Elsewhere, the tradition sank into oblivion, but Patek Philippe never stopped crafting beautifully decorated enameled wristwatches, pocket watches, and table clocks featuring lavish decorations based on venerable enameling techniques. After all, an art must be preserved in order to ensure a successful future.

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The Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo Ref. 5098R in Rose Gold

May 27th, 2010

Patek Philippe Gondolo Ref. 5098R in rose gold

In 2007, the legendary Patek Philippe Gondolo collection was relaunched which had literally been in limbo for eighty years: the Chronometro Gondolo. Since then Patek has introduced the Ref. 5098R, a new version with an 18K rose gold case and a matching dial. The warmth that it radiates played a particularly important role in the art nouveau and art deco periods.

The first Chronometro Gondolo wristwatches appeared around 1910. They were available in square, rectangular, and tonneau shapes, and also in a cushion-shaped carré cambré version. For this reason, all current Patek Philippe form watches – timepieces whose cases are not round – belong to the so-called Gondolo collection. In the second half of the Roaring Twenties, the global business climate began to deteriorate, and the last Chronometro Gondolo watch was dispatched to Rio de Janeiro in 1927.

Both the tonneau shape and rose gold are typical for art deco watch cases. But rarely have these two assets been so systematically and purely implemented as for the Patek Philippe Gondolo Ref. 5098. Its geometry was inspired by a Chronometro Gondolo that dates back to 1925, except that its silhouette is now gently curved to embrace the wrist. The fact that this curvature extends across the crystal and the transparent back, however, called for latest-generation precision technologies and the ability to accurately grind the extremely hard sapphire crystal to achieve a tight fit with the case. The result is a watch that has a fascinating aura of perfection.

The Patek Philippe Gondolo Reference 5098R has a hand guilloched two tone  silvery honey brown dial in gold with Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo inscriptions and Breguet numerals. The Gondolo Reference 5098R is the epitome of art deco styling that only Patek Philippe could create. The Gondolo watch demonstrates Patek Philippe’s commitment to form watches which figure proudly in the company’s legacy.

The movement that ticks inside the Patek Philippe Gondolo Ref. 5098R is as iconic in style as the superb tonneau case. It is Patek Philippe’s manually wound caliber 25-21 REC (REC for Rectangular), an exemplary study in modern horology. But it is also endowed with many of the formal details that set the Chronometro Gondolo movements of the early 20th century apart from all others. This applies especially to the S-shaped center-wheel bridge and to the slender escape-wheel and fourth-wheel cocks that afford a generous view into the depths of the movement. The Gyromax balance wheel invented by Patek Philippe has a frequency of 4 Hertz (28,800 semi-oscillations/hour) and assures the high rate accuracy of this watch. The 18 jewel mechanical manually wound movement caliber 25-21 REC is comprised of 142 individual parts. The manually wound mechanical movement is greatly appreciated by aficionados of traditional watchmaking. 100% of Patek Philippe mechanical movements are awarded prestigious hallmark of the Patek Philippe Seal.

The cambered dial of the Ref. 5098R, as authentic in style as its 1925 predecessor, is a small work of art that descends gently toward the lugs. Its silver-plated center and the surface that surrounds the railway track minute scale are artistically hand-guilloched using a now very rare artisanal technique. Between the two guilloched zones lies the brown gilt hour scale with brown painted Breguet numerals. Two cartouches that touch the hour scale at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock contain the signature of the maker, Patek Philippe Genève, and the “Chronometro Gondolo” model designation. The two pear-shaped hands are made of brown-colored gold.

Patek Philippe sent the first pocket watch to Gondolo & Labouriau, a watch retailer in Rio de Janeiro, on November 12, 1872. The consignment launched a strong business relationship that, from 1902 onward, eventually culminated in a collection of timepieces which the Geneva workshops designed exclusively for this Brazilian customer: the Chronometro Gondolo was born. A totally novel sales strategy was devised by Gondolo & Labouriau for these watches. Since the sales price of 790 Swiss francs was roughly equivalent to what a qualified worker in Brazil earned in a year, customers were offered an attractive payment scheme: ten francs a week for a maximum of 79 weeks and admission to an exclusive 180-member club that operated the Plano do Club Patek Philippe System. Clubs like this one were considered private entities and so could legally circumvent the ban on public gambling. Indeed, the Plano do Club Patek Philippe System was effectively a lottery with 79 consecutive weekly drawings, and the prize every time was a Chronometro Gondolo. Thus, the first winner received his watch for free, whereas the winners in the 78 subsequent drawings ended up paying anywhere between 10 and 780 francs for their watches. The remaining 101 members had to pay the full price.

The Gondolo collection is Patek Philippe’s contemporary interpretation of the art deco style.

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The Patek Philippe Twenty~4: An Icon of Style

May 26th, 2010

In Botticelli’s famous painting Primavera, the depiction of the three Graces demonstrates the meaning of beauty in the fifteenth century: inner poise, serenity and gracefulness. These qualities still matter most today but the modern word for them is chic- an intellectual beauty, unswayed by the foibles of fashion and symbolized by style icons including the little black dress  and the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 watch for women.

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 watch was inspired by the elegant, streamlined designs of the art deco era. Introduced in 1999 the Twenty~4 is a modern interpretation of the Gondolo timepiece. The Twenty~4 – ever a girl’s best friend-  was created for the refined, active woman of today who seeks a watch that reflects her style and may be worn on all occasions. Each model reflects perfection in craftsmanship and the curved silhouette of the case is a loving caress for the feminine wrist.  The Patek Philippe  Twenty~4 could be considered as much an essential  piece of jewelry as well as a timepiece.

The Iconic Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4910/11R in rose gold

Perfect for every hour of the day or night, worn as easily with jeans as with an evening gown , the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 evokes some of the fascinating women of the twentieth century, radiant creatures surrounded by an aura that has elevated them to the ranks of models for all time, from Marcella Agnelli and Jackie Kennedy to Grace Kelly, who transformed certain accessories into hallmarks of style. Think of the Indian necklace of rubies, gold and emeralds presented to Marcella by her husband Gianni, on their honeymoon. Think of strands of pearls that were the signature of every period of Jackie style from Bouvier to Kennedy or as Mrs. Onassis. Think, finally of grace Kelly’s stylish silk scarves.

In steel or gold, each Patek Philippe Twenty~4 model radiates its own blend of charm and sophistication. The Ladies Twenty~4 watch is available in several different sizes, in three shades of gold as well as a all steel model (Ref. 4910/10A) and various diamond configurations.

The Twenty~4 in rose gold

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4910/11R (pictured above) in rose gold is a worthy successor of such iconic style. The “Chocolate Dream” dial complements the warmth of the 18K rose gold and the fiery splendor of the top Wesselton diamonds that adorn the bezel and case. Yet it is the silken feel of the Twenty~4 on the wrist that is so captivating . For the woman with an innate sense of harmony, Patek Philippe has also created a collection of Twenty~4 jewelry.

The Patek Philippe Ladies Twenty~4 in steel and diamond

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4910/10A in steel

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4910/10A in steel features a diamond case and comes in four unique dial choices: “Timeless white”, “Forever Black”, “Eternal Grey” and “Sunburst Blue”. The ref. 4910/10A dial showcases a diamond bezel made up of eighteen internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds that match the dials diamond hour markers and gold applied roman numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock. The Twenty~4 is distinguished by its rectangular case with double side bars which are gently curved to fit the wrist and by its highly flexible, comfortable bracelet. The large steel bracelet with  links that are also curved  is particularly appreciated for its beautiful construction and effortless way in which it adapts to the wrist. It is closed by a folding-over clasp engraved with the Calatrava cross and its length can be precisely adjusted for an absolute perfect fit.

The Twenty~4 ref. 4910/10A is powered by a Caliber E 15 quartz movement. The case dimensions for the watch are 25 x 30 mm. The timepiece is water resistant to a depth of 30 meters.

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4910/10A is recognized as the epitome of elegance. A matching Twenty~4 ring in 18k white gold and diamonds is also available.

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 on a Satin Strap

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4911G Haut Joaillerie version in white gold

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 also comes on a satin strap and adapts perfectly to a woman’s wrist. The curved silhouette of the case is a loving caress for the feminine wrist. The Twenty~4 Ref. 4920 come in either white or rose gold and comes in a variety of  satin strap color choices: black, charcoal gray, pearl gray, chocolate or vanilla. The satin Twenty~4 comes with a 34 diamond bezel case(total diamond wt ).66 cts) . The Twenty~4  Ref. 4920 contains the Caliber E15 quartz movement (battery life: approximately 3 years).

The Twenty~4  on a satin strap can also can be purchased in the Haute Joaillerie version, with the watch entirely paved with diamonds (4910R) or baguette diamonds (Ref. 4911G).

A line of matching Twenty~4 rings and earrings echo the watch collection, forming a sophisticated ensemble that will complement every taste. Made in respect of the tradition and high quality of its precious timepieces, Patek Philippe takes the same care and attention in its exquisite  jewelry. Every piece of Patek Philippe jewelry is beautifully hand crafted.

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 now in 18K yellow gold

The patek Philippe Twenty~4 ref. 4907/1J in 18K yellow gold

In 2009, the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 celebrated ten triumphant years as on of the great classics of watch design. It marked the occasion by adding to its assets the noble beauty of 18K yellow gold without diamonds. The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4907/1J is offered in three dial choices: the endearingly classic “Timeless White”, “Night Glow” (deep gray) and “Autumn Gold” (golden brown). Each dial showcases diamond hour markers and gold applied roman numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock. The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4907/1J is the smallest Twenty~4 watch in the collection.

The Ref. 4907/1J comes with a Caliber E 15 quartz movement (battery life approximately 3 years). The watch case size is 22 x 26.3 mm. Water resistant to 30 meters.

Whether in cool steel, warm rose gold, white gold or yellow gold, the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 has established itself as an iconic symbol of style.

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A Perfect Memory: The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar

May 25th, 2010

The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146J in 18K yellow gold

Although everyone has their own way of remembering how many days there are in each month, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 provides the most elegant solution. This gentleman’s wristwatch takes the main components of the Annual Calendar, the Patek Philippe invention that won Watch of the Year in 1996 and adds a 45 hour power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock.

In contrast to the elegant simplicity of the styling, the number of complications on the dial hint at the complexity of craftsmanship beneath the case.  All three complications are driven by rotary mechanisms designed for smooth transmission. The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 displays the day, month by hands, center sweep second hand, date in an aperture at 6 o’clock as well as moon phases and power reserve indicator.  The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 comes in a contemporary 39mm case diameter. The timepiece is offered in white, yellow or rose gold as well as platinum. The gold models feature a cream or slate gray dial, with gold applied markers and arabic numerals at 3, 9  and 12 o’clock. The Ref. 5146P Annual Calendar in platinum features a Sunburst ebony dial with gold applied hour markers. The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref. 5146 comes on a fold-over clasp.

The Patek Philippe Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU self-winding mechanical movement

The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 is powered by the Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU mechanical self-winding movement and is comprised of 355 individual parts. The 36 jewel movement features a highly efficent 21K gold central rotor which is responsible for keeping the main spring wound.The Caliber 324 movement can be viewed through a sapphire exhibition back (as seen in the photo to the left).

The ingenious nature of the patented Annual Calendar requires great technical sophistication. Patek Philippe engineers essentially renounced lever mechanisms and rethought the entire structure of the movement. As a result, the Annual Calendar with moon phases works principally with wheels and pinions. So in 1996, Patek Philippe  actually triggered a small revolution in the world of the Calendar watch with the introduction of the Annual Calendar. The aim was to create a timepiece less complex to produce and more accessible than a perpetual calendar. In doing so, Patek Philippe signaled it’s intention of enlarging it’s collection of complicated watches and it’s following, by offering alongside these ultra-sophisticated pieces, complications that would be useful in everyday life.

The Patek Philippe Gondolo Calendario Ref. 5135

Since 1996, Patek Philippe has gone on to introduce several other incarnations of the Annual Calendar. Patek Philippe launched the Gondolo Calendario Reference 5135. Enthusiasts with a penchant for handsome , exclusive timepieces will appreciate the tonneau-shaped case which houses a new self-winding movement with  an arched arrangement of the month, day and date in three apertures, the Caliber 324 S QA LU 24 H. The  ingenious construction is a marvel of visual balance. The Patek Philippe Gondolo Calendario Ref. 5135 comes in 18K yellow, white  or rose gold as well as platinum. The watch has a sapphire crystal exhibition back through which on can view the  movement. This Patek Philippe Gondolo Calendario Ref. 5135 has a pronounced inspired Art Deco look and feel.

In 2005, in response to the Annual calendar’s increasing popularity with women, Patek Philippe presented the first ladies models: Reference 4936 and followed by a haute joaillerie version Reference 4937 in white gold with 427 diamonds.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Reference 5396R

In 2006, Patek Philippe launched the first Annual Calendar in a Calatrava-style case, the Patek Philippe  Reference 5396 with the day and month displayed in twin, inline apertures. The Annual Calendar mechanism has also taken pride in trailblazing models such as the first limited editions in the Patek Philippe Advanced Research concept Reference 5250 and the reference 5350 which featured then Patek Philippe silicon escape wheel and Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar. In 2006, the Annual Calendar was fitted in the ultra-sophisticated Reference 5960P. Long awaited  by connoisseurs, this important timepiece is Patek Philippe’s first self-winding chronograph with an Annual Calendar. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5960 is available in platinum or rose gold. Lovers of beautiful watchmaking will truley admire this Annual Calendar-chronograph timepiece.

The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar has become one of Patek Philippe’s leading models.

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Patek Philippe Nautilus: A Luxury Sportswatch with a Cult Following

May 23rd, 2010

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712/1A

A revolution took place in Geneva in 1976: the launch of a luxury watch in a steel case. The world of horology was perplexed and skeptical because time still advanced at the comfortable pace of the 20th century: Luxury timepieces are made of gold—or better yet with precious-metal bracelets— and, sometimes taking things a step further, with diamond hour markers and diamond-set bezels. At the same time, manufactures were competing against each other to develop thinner and thinner wristwatches. And suddenly, this oversized watch in stainless steel emerges; it is not only more expensive than many gold watches in those days, it also violated all convention with its prominent size and extravagant shape. Most surprisingly, it was the highly respected Patek Philippe workshops along with Gerald Genta that changed everything in the luxury category.  An ongoing paradigm shift had been observed. Many wealthy individuals were very active, not only in their professional lives but in their leisure activities as well. They were at the helm of sailing yachts, raced down icy runs, and went running in Central Park at dawn to stay in shape. This new generation loved challenge and pursued dynamic lifestyles. A precious, scratch-prone gold dress watch, with its delicate movement, did not suit their everyday lives. Such timepieces were de rigueur at elegant evening events but were not what busy managers and entrepreneurs wanted to wear at the office, on the tennis court, or during a weekend golf game. Patek Philippe anticipated this trend well in advance and responded to it in 1976 by launching the Nautilus Ref. 3700 – a totally new type of watch. While it was designed to appeal to a new customer segment, it was also intended to convince current Patek Philippe owners to complement their precious gold one with a ruggedly strong” alternative in a steel case. Both objectives were attained by a wide margin and an advertising campaign helped convert the iconoclastic style of the Nautilus into a principle. The headline “It goes with a wet suit as well as with a tuxedo” drove the point home.

People who remember construction details of old cruise ships will notice the resemblance of the Nautilus case with the classic porthole whose round window was also pressed to the frame with a hinge and tension bolts. The result: the Nautilus was water-resistant to 120 meters, a sensation for a regular-production casual watch by 1976 standards. This gave owners the reassurance that the Nautilus would be a loyal companion even under the most arduous circumstances.

A fresh accent: Rose gold.

So far, Patek Philippe Nautilus models have been available in stainless steel and in yellow or white gold as well as in rare platinum versions. Now, one of the new large-format Nautilus watches comes with a captivating rose-gold case, creating a beautiful contrast of warmth and functional elegance. To underscore the aesthetic appeal of the material combinations, the dials were also reworked to match the cases. Stainless steel models, like before, have blue-black dials, while the rose-gold version has a warmer brown-charcoal dial. Both of these dials have a technical flourish: They are galvanized and lacquered to produce a light-to-dark gradation from the center to the periphery, a characteristic feature of the Nautilus. The white-gold model (Ref. 5712) features a charcoal dial that is galvanized only. The typical horizontal embossing pattern has been retained, but the hands have been enlarged. The applied luminous hour markers are also slightly larger with the contours progressively matched to the shape of the bezel. With these subtle modifications, the faces of the redesigned Nautilus watches look familiar yet are refreshingly new.

Steel bracelets and leather straps: details that count

The first Patek Philippe Nautilus models were worn on metal bracelets that were remarkably supple despite their strong and massive links. The proportion of the bracelets has been further refined and harmonized with the new case sizes. Each bracelet visually prolongs the case contours, and the links gradually narrow to meet in a fold-over clasp that is both secure and comfortable on the wrist. The finish was reworked as well to further enhance the supple look and feel. Like the original, the outer links are satin-finished, while the middle ones are mirror-polished. The large models in white and rose gold are worn on large-scale alligator straps – safari black with white gold and brown with rose gold. The matching gold fold-over clasp has a new three part design with a threaded length adjustment feature.

The Flag ship model: The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A

The classic Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A in stee

The Patek Philippe  Nautilus Ref. 5711/1 A has a case width of 43 mm,  which is one millimeter larger than its 1976 predecessor. This is not a reflection of the general trend toward more dominant watches; rather, the slight increase is due to the rounder contours of the lateral hinge ridges. The new three-part case has a screwed back with a sapphire-crystal window and a screw-down crown. The watch is water resistant to a depth of 120 meters. Its self-winding mechanical movement heart, powered by an extra-heavy 21K gold central rotor, is the Patek Philippe caliber 315 SC movement, acclaimed by collectors and connoisseurs alike. The dial design has been aclaimed in it’s own right as well. It displays the hours, minutes, sweep seconds, and the date in an aperture at 3 o’clock. The face is beautifully finished with an embossed horizontal relief that creates a two tone effect. A perfect compliment to the rugged look of the Nautilus. This high precision timepiece is the perfect watch for the tennis court or the tuxedo.

The new Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1 A comes in a stainless steel case worn on an integrated stainless steel bracelet with satin-finished outer links and polished middle links. The integrated bracelet is a masterly display of craftsmanship, being both supply to the touch and comfortable on the wrist, yet robust enough to withstand the rigors encountered by a sports watch.

Getting complicated: The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712

The dial featuring complications - The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712/1AGetting complicated: the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712

This new Patek Philippe Nautilus also has a prominent predecessor that achieved cult status virtually overnight. Apart from displaying the hours and minutes, it has a subsidiary seconds dial at 4 o’clock, a power-reserve indicator between 10 and 11 o’clock, and an analog date at 7 o’clock with an integrated moon-phase display. For a sporty watch, this is an exceptional number of complications, and the eye-catching layout adds a touch of exclusivity to the Patek Philippe Nautilus  Ref. 5712/1. It has a three-part case with a sapphire-crystal caseback, a screw-down crown, and a moon-phase corrector push piece in the side of the case. The corrector limits the water resistance of the watch to 60 meters. This complicated Nautilus is powered by the famous self-winding Patek Philippe caliber 240 PS IRM C LU movement. Despite the sophistication of the caliber, it is merely 3.98 mm high, thanks to the 22K gold minirotor recessed in the main plate. The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712/1 A has a stainless steel case with an integrated stainless steel bracelet. The outer bracelet links are satin-finished and the middle links are polished.

The warm rose gold of the Patek Philippe 5712R

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712R in rose gold

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712 is also available in two further versions: the Ref. 5712 R in 18K rose gold and the Ref. 5712 G in 18K white gold. These watches are worn on hand-stitched, large-scale alligator straps in brown (rose gold) or safari black (white gold). The straps come with a novel security fold-over clasp in 18K rose or white gold. The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712R in warm rose gold has proven to be a highly sought after timepiece among watch aficionados.  The Ref. 5712 is powered by the Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU self-winding movement which despite its sophistication is a mere 3.98mm thick. The movement is comprised of 265 individual parts including a 22Kt gold mini rotor and gyromax balance. Complications incluse moon phases and a 48 hour  power reserve indicator. The watch has subsidiary seconds sub dial at 4 o’clock as well as an analog date at 7 o’clock.  The  case size for this timepiece is a contemporary 40mm. The three part case is water resistant to 60 meters and has a screw down crown. Patek Philippe offers matching Nautilus cufflinks in gold.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1A

The Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5890/1A features new black dial


The timing was perfect. Patek Philippe fans and collectors had to wait years for the first chronograph crafted entirely in-house. Finally, in 2005, the Geneva workshops presented the Ref. 5959P, the world’s thinnest split-seconds chronograph. In January 2006, it was followed by the Ref. 5960P, the first self-winding chronograph with an Annual Calendar, and now, Patek Philippe unveils the Nautilus Ref. 5980/1 A chronograph. Nothing could better complement this elegant yet resolutely sporty timepiece than a stopwatch function. Indeed, the new self-winding, column-wheel-controlled caliber 28-520 C chronograph movement and the new 44-mm Nautilus case are a perfect match. While its architecture is based on the movement of the Ref. 5960, the 28-520 C features an instant-change date in an aperture at 3 o’clock and also stands out with a number of highly interesting chronograph functions. The chronograph hand with the flyback feature doubles as a constantly running sweep seconds hand. This is possible because in the new mechanism, the three fine-toothed chronograph wheels normally used to start and stop time measurements have been replaced by a virtually friction-free, vertical disc-type clutch. The monocounter that dominates the bottom half of the dial is unusual as well. On three concentric scales, it keeps track of the minutes and hours that have elapsed since a timing was activated. This fascinating movement is accommodated in the new, subtly redesigned 44-mm Nautilus case, making it currently the largest model in the collection. The two chronograph push pieces are so well integrated in the caseband that it seems as if the 1976 design had been conceived for a chronograph to begin with. The back of the three-part case incorporates a sapphire-crystal window, revealing the artistic decoration of the superb movement, the gold rotor, and  embossed Geneva Seal.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1 A has a stainless steel case with an integrated stainless steel bracelet. The outer bracelet links are satin-finished and the middle links are polished. Patek Philippe offers a choice of two dials: classic blue which the Nautilus is recognized for or a new  black dial.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980R in 18K rose gold

The new Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980R in warm rose gold

At this year’s Basel World, Patek Philippe is presenting the Nautilus Ref. 5980R Chronograph  in 18Kt rose gold worn on a leather strap and featuring a precious-metal case crafted from 18K rose gold. Because of a slightly higher proportion of copper, this alloy has a darker red hue than rose gold, so it has a more masculine look without compromising elegance. As a perfect match, the brown dial has a horizontal embossed texture and a bright/dark gradation from the center to the periphery, two typical manifestations of the Nautilus style. The prominent hour markers, nine rose gold appliques filled with a luminescent compound, constitute the formal complements to the baton-style luminescent hands in rose gold. The new Nautilus Chronograph in rose gold is worn on a brown, large-scaled alligator strap; it is almost seamlessly integrated into the case with exclusive lug links and secured with a comfortable fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold. The Nautilus is destined to be an important addition to this iconic series of watches from Patek Philippe.

The new Patek Philippe Nautilus annual calendar ref. 5726A in steel

The new Patek Philippe Nautlilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726A in cool steel

Introduced at this years Basel World Fair, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5726A  incorporates the Patek Philippe 324 S QA LU 24H movement, the new Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5726 is the first Nautilus model with an Annual Calendar. It comes in a stainless steel case and is worn on an alligator strap. Its black dial, sleek and casually elegant, is designed for optimized legibility . The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5726A was one of the hotter watches at Basel World  2010 with most people feeling it is a great addition to the Nautilus collection.  The Nautilus  Ref. 5726A Annual Calendar displays day, date, month in apertures as well as moon phases and am/pm indicators. The timepiece has a sapphire crystal exhibition back so as to view its fantastic self-winding movement. The Ref. 5726A has a case size of40.50mm and is ater resistant to 120 meters.

The  Nautilus collection showcases the flattering redesign of Patek Philippe’s casually elegant classic. It has gained style through subtle and carefully calculated changes while preserving its original spirit and mien.

The ladies Patek Philippe Nautilus

The Patek Philippe Ladies Nautilus Ref. 7010 and Ref. 7011 rounds out this charismatic family of timepieces. Three years after the successful launch of the new men’s Nautilus collection that marked the 30-year anniversary of this cult watch, Patek Philippe presents the new Nautilus collection for ladies. The latest interpretation of the feminine Nautilus comes in white or rose gold with a diamond-set bezel and a silvery white or charcoal gray dial. The exclusive dial design of the original Nautilus, the archetype of the casually elegant watch for go-getting people with active lifestyles, has been refined for even greater feminine appeal. The new case with the slightly enlarged diameter (32 mm instead of 28.5 mm of the original Ref. 4700 model) radiates contemporary elegance. The companion rings of these watches in white or rose gold are inspired by the octagonal form of the Nautilus bezel.

If all this were not enough there are beautiful matching Patek Philippe Nautilus jewelry and Patek Philippe Nautilus cufflinks to choose from.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus is truly a luxury sports watch with a cult following.

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The Patek Philippe Seal

May 20th, 2010

Patek Philippe has always been associated with the highest quality and craftsmanship. The production of a Patek Philippe timepiece supersedes all conventional standards. Every single detail is taken into consideration. To communicate these rigorus standards and guarantee that they are respected, Patek Philippe has created a proprietary seal of quality. It is known as “The Patek Philippe Seal”. The highest standard in the art of watchmaking. The Patek Philippe Seal is a emblem of excellence that applies to the completed and fully cased watch. It covers the movement, the case, dial, hands, pushers, buttons, straps, bracelets, buckles and clasps as well as all other components that contribute to the accuracy and aesthetic appeal of the timepiece.

To qualify for the Patek Philippe Seal, a movement must fulfill a multitude of strict requirements with respect to its technical assets and its finissage. Compliance with this criterion results in masterpieces that are admired by knowledgeable connoisseurs for their outstanding functionality, long-term reliability, superior rate accuracy, and unmatched beauty. Individuals who own a timepiece with the Patek Philippe Seal can rest assured that for its entire lifetime, their watch is backed by a global service organization which measures up to the same standards of excellence as the product itself – in every respect. The unlimited validity of this promise is rooted in the philosophy behind an instrument made to last, a watch acquired not only for personal gratification but one destined to be handed down to future generations.

A Patek Philippe Reference 5960R bearing the Patek Philippe SealFinally, the true purpose of the Patek Philippe seal was to create a new world recognized benchmark for Patek Philippe watches that would incorporate all of the standards that have always made a Patek Philippe watch special. This decision was not made in an egotistical manner but rather was aimed at formalizing and communicating what stands behind the Patek Philippe quality, internally and outside the company, and to bring a stronger guarantee of excellence to their customers. The directives of the Patek Philippe Seal are very strict, stronger than any other benchmark from any other watch company and most importantly envelop the watch in its entirety. And so after more than 120 years Patek Philippe has started to replace the long standing Geneva Seal with the Patek Philippe Seal.

Harold Freeman Jewelers is an Patek Philippe Authorized Agent.

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The Tradition of Patek Philippe Officer’s Style Watches

May 19th, 2010

The Patek Philippe 5159G Perpetual Calendar with Officer's style case

It took time for the wristwatch to become popular, because the classic pocket watch was long regarded as a symbol of masculinity. Yet is was in military circles that the first bracelets with integrated watches made their debut, and officer’s were the first to recognize their usefulness. With an undaunted fresh and innovative spirit, Patek Philippe acted on the idea of manufacturing rugged and highly functional wristwatches based on existing pocket watches.

View of Officer's style dust cover and self-winding movement

Today, the company salutes this trailblazing era with it’s officer’s style watches. Granted they are modernized, but they still possess the characteristic features of the old days: the pronounced radius of the bezel, lugs with screws, sapphire crystal case backs protected by dust covers, and the turban crown. They are made for the tradition conscious gentlemen.

A Patek Philippe Officer’s style  case is often just as sophisticated as the timepiece itself. A solid gold dust cover, an authentic hallmark of Patek Philippe officer’s watches, protects the display back. Although this may seem simply aesthetic, when the cover snaps shut, it must be tight around the entire circumference. The casemaker checks this precision fit with a magnifying glass and at the same time listens attentively to the click and will patiently adjust the hinge until the perfectly sealed cover makes the sound that is associated with a Patek Philippe officer’s watch.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5153J with Officer's style case

Current Patek Philippe Officer’s style watches include the Patek Philippe Ref. 5159 Perpetual Calendar and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5153J. Recently discontinued Officer’s style watches include  References: 5053, 5054 and the 150th Anniversary model Reference 3960 produced in 1989.

Patek Philippe, Officer's wristwatch Ref. 3960P made in limited edition to commemorate the company's 150th anniversary in 1989

Patek Philippe watches are highest examples of the fine art of watchmaking and are considered the finest timepieces made today.


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