The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator

July 6th, 2011

Patek Philippe’s new Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator embodies a number of novel facets never before featured in the manufacture’s collection. It is the first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a regulator dial, characterized by a sweep minute hand, a subsidiary hour dial at 12 o’clock and a seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The heart of the watch is the new caliber 31-260 REG QA, the first ultra-thin self-winding Patek Philippe movement with a mini-rotor that displays the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. It is also the very first totally new basic movement designed to accommodate Silinvar® components: The escape wheel and the lever of the Pulsomax® escapement as well as the Spiromax® balance spring are made of the innovative silicon-based material. The new wristwatch is endowed with an Annual Calendar that displays the month, day, and date in apertures and ranks among Patek Philippe’s most popular complications.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator clearly affirms the manufacture’s philosophy according to which the paramount purpose of a watch is to keep the time as accurately and reliably as possible. The dial with the unusual arrangement – large sweep minute hand combined with subsidiary hours at 12 o’clock and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock – pays tribute to the prominent free-standing precision pendulum clocks that for more than 200 years kept the precise time in watchmaking workshops and observatories until they were finally superseded by quartz- and radio-controlled reference instruments. When adjusting their timepieces, watchmakers needed an unobstructed view of the seconds hand, which is why the hour display was moved to an off-center location where it would not sweep over and thus partially cover the seconds dial for several hours in the course of a day. One of the finest examples of this type of freestanding precision clocks is the Patek Philippe & Co. regulator built at the beginning of the last century. For many years it has been keeping the time unperturbed – second by second – in the office of Philippe Stern, the company’s honorary president.

To configure the face of a regulator clock with three separate displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds in a wristwatch format was a totally new venture in the Patek Philippe cosmos, not just from a design point of view. The plan was to set the stage for further innovations based on this novel layout. The legendary caliber 240 would have been the ideal choice for the assignment which called for a very thin self-winding movement, but most unconventionally, its subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at 5 instead of 6 o’clock. Launched in 1977 and featuring a 22K gold mini-rotor recessed in the main plate, the 240 movement is only 2.53 mm high; it still ranks among the thinnest self-winding calibers on the market and thus provided valuable inspiration for the new development. With the assets of its dependable predecessor and several trailblazing innovations, Patek Philippe’s new self-winding caliber 31-260 REG QA has everything it takes to define a new benchmark. Squarely centered between the middle of the movement and its outermost circumference, the size of the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock was maximized for optimum legibility – another homage to Patek Philippe’s philosophy as regards the equilibrium of timekeeping indications.

Innovation No. 1: The oscillator in Silinvar®
For the first time in the history of Patek Philippe, a movement was designed from the very beginning to accommodate oscillator components crafted from Silinvar®, a high-tech material derived from silicon. One of them is the Spiromax® balance spring that is flat yet breathes absolutely concentrically thanks to its exclusive and patented geometry with the Patek Philippe terminal curve. It controls the division of time by the Pulsomax® escapement whose Silinvar® lever and escape wheel also feature totally new geometries developed by Patek Philippe and for which patent applications have been filed. The enhanced isochronism delivered by the Spiromax® hairspring and the improved energy efficiency provided by the Pulsomax® escapement contribute significantly to higher rate accuracy and long-term dependability. Additionally, Silinvar® components are totally anti-magnetic, remarkably shock-resistant, non-corroding, and require no lubrication.

Innovation No. 2: A new going train – tooth by tooth
But Patek Philippe’s engineers wanted more than a new oscillator. They totally revamped the going train, the wheels and pinions between the mainspring barrel and the escape wheel. The shapes of the wheel teeth and the leaves of the pinions were analyzed in-depth, recalculated, and individually redesigned for the center wheel, the third wheel, and the fourth wheel with their respective pinions. These new profiles improve the meshing of wheel teeth and pinion leaves, reduce friction, increase the tolerance range for varying axis distances, and boost the efficiency of energy transmission from the spring barrel to the escape wheel. The result is a perceptible improvement of energy conversion efficiency with a concurrent reduction of wear.

Innovation No. 3: an unusual frequency of 3.2 hertz
The innovative efficiency-boosting and isochronism-improving technologies of the new regulator caliber 31-260 REG QA entail further positive consequences. While the classic self-winding caliber 240 beats at a rate of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, the frequency of the new movement was increased by nearly 10% to 23,040 vph, equivalent to 3.2 Hz, and at the same time, its power reserve was increased. In turn, a higher frequency makes it possible to more easily adjust the rate accuracy to – 3/+2 seconds per 24 hours as stipulated by the Patek Philippe Seal. Concurrently, thanks to the greater energy efficiency of the going train and escapement, it was possible to reduce the tension of the mainspring and thus the shear forces to which the wheels are exposed. This diminishes friction between the fine wheel pivots and the bearing jewels, further enhancing longevity and reliability. These two aspects are crucial for compliance with the Patek Philippe Seal and essential prerequisites for a watch that will be cherished by family members across generations.

Innovation No. 4: an extra-long mainspring for power to spare
Thanks to the energy efficiency of the caliber, it proved possible to choose a softer but also longer mainspring. So despite its increased frequency and the deployant of only one mainspring barrel, the new caliber 31-260 REG QA has a power reserve of up to 60 hours as opposed to a maximum of 48 hours for the caliber 240. The extended length of the mainspring has another advantage: its torque curve stays much flatter as it relaxes, so the amplitude of the balance and thus its rate remain stable most of the time between the fully wound and the fully unwound states. The result: greater rate accuracy for a longer period of time. And the option to set the watch aside for an entire weekend without having to readjust the time and the calendar on Monday morning.

Further significant innovations

Patek Philippe introduced further innovations to maximize the life and long-term reliability of the new Annual Calendar Regulator. Like all self-winding Patek Philippe movements, the caliber 31-260 REG QA can also be manually wound. However, the manual winding mechanism is always automatically uncoupled as long as the self-winding mode is active. This increases its winding power and reduces wear. In addition, the crown wheel of the manual winding mechanism was upgraded with a new toothing mechanism that reduces wear, improves efficiency, and optimizes the suppleness of the winding process. Moreover, the 22K gold mini-rotor recessed in the plate is 0.3 mm thicker than the one in the caliber 240 movement, which increases its mass and winding power. Decorated with Geneva circular graining, it is also a miniature masterpiece from the aesthetic point of view.
In comparison with the meanwhile 34-year-old caliber 240, the new caliber 31-260 REG QA beats at a 10% higher frequency and has 25% higher power reserve, which adds up to an efficiency increase of about 30%. This performance emphasizes the ample potential of mechanical watches and in times of global energy debates serves as a role model because it proves that even in traditional disciplines such as classical mechanics, substantial efficiency gains are still realistic.
Self-winding Annual Calendar with aperture displays
The new Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator measures time with an accuracy of seconds, but it also correctly displays larger intervals of time. The new basic caliber incorporates an Annual Calendar mechanism that has been one of the manufacture’s bestsellers since it had its debut 15 years ago. This useful complication that displays the day, month, and date in three large apertures automatically recognizes 30-day and 31-day months and only needs to be corrected once a year: on March 1. On account of this calendar cadrature, the caliber designation is 31-260 REG QA; the movement consists of 320 parts (basic caliber 181, Annual Calendar 139), measures 5.08 mm in height (basic caliber 2.60 mm, Annual Calendar 2.48 mm), and has a diameter of 33 mm (basic caliber 31.74 mm, Annual Calendar 33.00 mm). The dimensions are ideal for a  wristwatch conceived to be timelessly elegant.
New regulator face with a classic Calatrava personality
Despite the unusual regulator layout of the dial, the new Patek Philippe wristwatch is as fetchingly graceful as all the timepieces crafted in the workshops in Geneva. Its case features the classic Calatrava silhouette that has defined the quintessential round wristwatch for nearly 70 years. Thanks to the ultra-thin movement, its height is a mere 11 mm, astonishing for a self-winding watch with an Annual Calendar. With a diameter of 40.5 mm, it is endearingly poised and tastefully contemporary. The classic three-part case ensemble with the bezel, the band, and the back in 18K white gold is a prime example of the Bauhaus philosophy expressed by the adage “form follows function.” The bezel is gently chamfered and the caseband is decorated with straight graining – a perfect match with the satin-finished dial. The slightly sloped lugs extend the bezel’s chamfer, optimizing the contour of the watch for a snug fit on the wrist. It is worn on a precious hand-stitched night-blue alligator strap with square scales. The classic 18K white-gold prong buckle that secures the strap is engraved with the Patek Philippe signature. The display back of the case allows the owner to admire the movement with its exclusive components and lavish decorations: the new oscillator assembly with the Pulsomax® escapement and the Spiromax® balance spring as well as the mini-rotor decorated with Geneva circular graining, the Geneva striping on the beveled bridges, and the gold-filled engravings.

The sapphire-crystal glass protects the inimitable face of the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5235 with its characteristic sweep minute hand, the subsidiary hours dial at 12 o’clock, and the amply dimensioned subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The large aperture displays of the Annual Calendar are arranged on a circle that is concentric with the bezel: the day of the week at 10 o’clock, the month at 2 o’clock, and the date at 6 o’clock. Engraved in the dial, the PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE signature is aligned with the horizontal axis at 3 o’clock. Depending on the angle of the incident light, it changes in contrast from deep black to a silvery gray that seems to be just a gentle shadow on the textured dial. Blue transfer-printed numerals, markers, and scales always assure excellent legibility of the time. The railway track minute scale as well as the subsidiary dials for the hours and seconds have a brighter silvery gray background that stands out against the darker silvery gray central portion of the dial with the short blue 5-minute markers. Crisp Arabic numerals, blued-steel baton-style hands and blue calendar indications on white backgrounds underscore the cool technical elegance of this 2011 wristwatch that salutes the ultra-precise freestanding regulator clocks of old. The two-tone silvery gray dial features a vertical satin finish, and the two subsidiary dials scintillate with circular graining.
The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator is yet another manifestation of how consummately the Geneva workshops master the amalgamation of avant-garde aesthetics with timeless elegance. The innovative personality of this watch is based on much more than appearances: it is derived from a mechanical heart that sets new standards in horology. Absolutely Patek Philippe- like.

If you would like to know more about Patek Philippe timepieces, please stop by our shop or give us a call at 866-240-7366. One of our knowledgeable staff will be happy to assist you.

Harold Freeman Jewelers is an Authorized Dealer of Patek Philippe watches.

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A Legendary Grand Complication

May 6th, 2011

With its new Ref. 5216, Patek Philippe rises to a further level of sophistication in minute repeaters, launching the legendary caliber R TO 27 PS QR LU movement with the five most popular complications in a perceptibly larger case that encloses a more voluminous resonant cavity to enhance the sonority of the chimes. This new Grand Complication follows in the footsteps of the famous Ref. 5016 that was launched in 1993 and in the past 18 years has been widely popular among aficionados. Until the Sky Moon Tourbillon was introduced in 2001, it was Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch. Now, the new Ref. 5216R occupies rank 4 in this category, behind the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002, the new Triple Complication Ref. 5208, and the Ref. 5207, first presented in 2008.

The legendary Caliber R TO 27 PS QR LU mechanical movement

Patek Philippe hits the right notes

Patek Philippe has been crafting pocket watches with repeater mechanisms since 1844. And in 1916, the workshops built the world’s first wristwatch (for ladies, by the way) with a five-minute repeater. Hardly any other manufacture has accrued so much experience in dealing with the special challenges of these unusual instruments for such a long and uninterrupted period of time. It takes many skills to craft a repeater mechanism with its filigreed racks, snails and springs and to assure that its sequence of strikes corresponds to the time displayed by the watch. The eloquence of the sound is an important aspect as well. The rule is: “volume sounds.” The case diameter of the new Ref. 5216 is 39.5 mm, tangibly larger than the 36.8 mm span of its predecessor, the Ref. 5016. In a micromechanical cosmos where watchmakers navigate hundredths of a millimeter when assembling the individual mechanisms, a gain of 2.7 mm represents a totally new dimension. And that’s exactly how the new Grand Complication sounds.

As soon as the slide in the left-hand flank of the case is actuated, the minute repeater starts playing a melody that translates the time displayed on the dial into sound – to the ears of the connoisseur, it is music of exceptionally rich sonority and fullness. First, it strikes the hours on the low-pitched gong, then the quarter-hours with double high-low notes, and finally the minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter-hour on the high-pitched gong. The highlight is at 12:59 when 32 consecutive strikes tell the time. To verify the perfection of its acoustic spectrum, each Ref. 5216 is tested in a soundproofed chamber equipped with modern instrumentation and digital sound analyzers. Finally, every watch is brought to the desks of the manufacture’s president Thierry Stern and honorary president Philippe Stern who devote their undivided attention to the chimes of the minute repeaters and then decide whether or not they live up to the strict criteria of the human ear. Patek Philippe minute repeaters owe their inimitable acoustic signature to this very personal appraisal.

Tourbillon

Everything about the tourbillon revolves around precision

The mellow sonority of the Ref. 5216 will enchant lovers of complicated mechanical watches, but they will also recognize that the accuracy of this timepiece represents another dimension as well. This is due to the tourbillon, which in vertical orientations of the watch offsets the disruptive effects of gravity on the balance by rotating it about its own axis once a minute. Its cage is a dainty ensemble of 69 steel parts that together weigh a scant 0.3 grams. Because the sole purpose of the tourbillon is to safeguard the rate accuracy of the watch and for this reason must remain amply lubricated at all times, Patek Philippe respects horological traditions and does not expose it through an aperture in the dial. The UV spectrum of daylight would degrade the quality of the oil within just a few days. However, the tourbillon can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back which is rarely exposed to sunlight. The reward for this discretion is a degree of rate accuracy that pursuant to the criteria of the Patek Philippe Seal for tourbillon movements tolerates a maximum deviation of -2 to +1 seconds per day. Accordingly, it can take months to adjust a watch to match the specification, but once accomplished, this is confirmed with a separate rate accuracy certificate delivered with each Ref. 5216.

Calendar and moon phases for eternity

To make matters even more complicated, the new Ref. 5216 is endowed with a perpetual calendar that automatically indicates the correct date, day, month, and leap-year cycle until 2100, provided the watch always remains wound. The day, month, and leap-year cycle are displayed in small apertures, while the retrograde date is indicated with a hand that advances along a 250° arc from the first to the last day of the month, and then jumps back to the first day of the next month. This mechanism incorporates a safety feature which assures that the hand cannot bounce forward to the second or third day when it performs this reverse jump. All things considered, details such as this safety feature of the retrograde date are among the factors that determine reliability and long-term rate accuracy – hallmarks of genuine expertise –, even in Grand Complication timepieces. The moon-phase display that shows the constantly changing face of our planet’s satellite also deserves a few explanatory words. Its choreography is fetching not merely because of the poetic aspects, but also because of the extreme precision involved. Only when 122 years and 45 days have elapsed will this moon-phase mechanism deviate from the true lunar cycle by one day, which is equivalent to one full lunation every 3420 years.

 

It gets simpler

However, the new Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5216 also has its simple facets: operation and legibility. From the outside, nothing much reveals the extreme degrees of difficulty embodied on the inside. The rose gold case is sleek and round, and only the slide that triggers the minute repeater deviates slightly from the classic Calatrava style. A large, comfortably fluted crown simplifies winding, and small push pieces are recessed in the case middle for adjusting the calendar indications. They are actuated with a stylus made of ebony and rose gold that is delivered with the watch. Thanks to the intelligently organized dial, the eight time and calendar indications are superbly legible. The hours and minutes are shown with faceted Dauphine hands and applied markers, the seconds with a slender baton hand at 6 o’clock. The calendar features generously sized aperture displays for the day of the week (9 o’clock), the month (3 o’clock) and the leap-year cycle (12 o’clock) as well as a retrograde hand from the center that points at the date with its red arrow tip. The moon-phase display at 6 o’clock is not only endearingly poetic but also contributes to the perfect equilibrium of the entire dial. On the dial, only a small inscription suggests the presence of a tourbillon, but its perpetually enchanting progression can always be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back. Owners who prefer an extra degree of discretion can have it replaced with a solid rose-gold back that comes with the watch.

Thus, one of the world’s most complicated wristwatches is distinctively understated in its appearance; its decidedly classic style is underscored by the hand-stitched alligator strap. Thanks to its ingenious design, the 18K gold foldover clasp is both comfortingly secure and amazingly simple to open and close. But that’s another story.

Patek Philippe creates what most experts would agree to be the finest timepieces in the world.

Harold Freeman Jewelers is an authorized Patek Philippe dealer located on the west coast of Florida. If you would like to know more about Patek Philippe watches please drop by our shop or give us a call at 866-240-7366.

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Baselworld 2011: The New Rolex Daytona

May 6th, 2011

The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in Everrose gold

The exhilaration of driving. A passion for mechanics. The exclusive feel of noble materials. The new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is resolutely dedicated to those who enjoy the finer things in life. The owner of this chrono¬graph designed with speed and performance in mind is among those who avidly take advantage of all that life has to offer, love the freedom of the open road and are not afraid to take the turns tightly.

Speed and automobile sport
Launched in 1963, the Cosmograph Daytona is closely linked to speed and automobile sport. Its chronograph movement allows short periods of elapsed time to be measured to within 1⁄8 th of a second, and the tachymetric scale on the bezel enables the instant reading of speed over a given distance. Adopted by car racing drivers for its performance, reliability and exceptional readability, this prestigious chronograph carries in red letters on its dial the name “Daytona” – the most famous motor racing circuit in the United States.

Legendary heritage and exclusive technology
With its new, exclusive monobloc black CERACHROM bezel developed by Rolex – made of an advanced ceramic virtually impervious to scratches, corrosion-resistant and non-fading – this new version of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona exhibits state-of-the-art technology and pays homage to its legendary heritage. Its black bezel is reminiscent of that of the 1965 model. The graduations on the CERACHROM bezel, offering perfect readabil¬¬ity, are obtained by the deposition of a fine layer of pink gold via a magnetron cathode sputtering PVD process.

This high-precision chronograph certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) is driven by calibre 4130, introduced in 2000, a movement with a column wheel and vertical clutch entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex. Its revolutionary architecture, the fruit of years of research, has reduced its complexity and increased its reliability. A profusion of Rolex innovations, calibre 4130 is equipped with a PARACHROM hairspring with a Breguet overcoil. The hairspring is manufactured from a new alloy, developed and produced by Rolex, which makes it insensitive to magnetic fields and up to 10 times more resistant to shocks.

The new model’s sophisticated aesthetics are underscored by the noble materials used in its construction: the Oyster case in 18 ct EVEROSE gold, an alloy created by Rolex; the chocolate brown or ivory coloured dial with gold hour markers; and the comfortable strap in black alligator leather with an 18 ct EVEROSE gold folding clasp and safety catch.

Rolex manufacturers what many consider to be the finest sports watches made in the world.

 

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The New Ladies Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition

May 2nd, 2011

 

Rolex presents the new Ladies Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition

The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition is more sensual and more dazzling than ever. This bold incarnation of a feminine classic, in its 34 mm 18 ct EVEROSE gold case, enriches a collection already offered in yellow and white gold.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition, with its smooth bezel set with 12 brilliants and its GOLDUST DREAM dials with delicate gold motifs on black or white mother-of-pearl, is the first 34 mm model produced in 18 ct EVEROSE gold. This new model is an addition to the DATEJUST SPECIAL EDITION collection, already offered in yellow and
white gold.

Seductive charm of EVEROSE gold

The 18 ct EVEROSE gold of the case, bracelet and bezel sets the tone from the outset: an exclusive Rolex alloy, captivating in its inherent lustre and nobility. A mixture of serenity and vitality, sobriety and audacity, it exerts an
irresistible power of seduction and gives the watch its strong personality. Around the bezel sparkle 12 brilliant-cut diamonds, elegantly showcased in 18 ct white gold settings. The effect is luminous, exquisite, enchanting.

Dream dials
Dazzlingly delicate, the GOLDUST DREAM dial is a subtle, refined marriage of white or black mother-of-pearl and gold dust. The mother-of-pearl is embellished with a new nature-inspired motif and an exquisite design in pink gold dust applied in a fine layer via a patented PVD process which preserves the mother-of-pearl’s natural structure while giving it a highly original metallic sheen. The slightest ray of light illuminates this magical dial with iridescent reflections that make the fine strata of the mother-of-pearl shimmer in a subtle play of light. Each of these dials, with a large gem-set numeral at 6 o’clock, is a unique, refined work of art, striking in its delicate splendour.

Distinction and precision
The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition stands out thanks to its gracious, curved lines, its feminine form and its new, elegant invisible clasp. It is also an Oyster with peerless precision and reliability, a waterproof
chronometer equipped with a PERPETUAL rotor self-winding mechanical movement. A trusted companion under all
circumstances.

The lady who wears this watch looks ahead, stepping confidently towards her future. She glances at her watch, living the present to the full, her sights already set on expanding horizons.

Harold Freeman Jewelers is an Authorized Dealer located on the west coast of Florida.

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This is Breitling!

May 1st, 2011

Breitling  just came out with a new and exciting video! Whether by land, sea or air, Breitling has it covered. Enjoy the video!

Harold Freeman Jewelers is an Authorized Breitling Dealer offering a huge selection of new Breitling timepieces. Give us a call at 866-240-7366 and one of our knowledgeable sales staff  will be happy to answer any questions you might have.

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Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208P

April 27th, 2011

The new Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208P is yet another accomplishment that underscores the leadership of the Geneva-based workshops in the complicated watch segment. With a minute repeater, monopusher chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, it presents the most challenging degrees of difficulty with peerless perfection. And it is not a one-of-a-kind timepiece: it is a new model in the regular Patek Philippe collection, offering definitive proof that the so-called “domain of the extraordinary” is part of the everyday reality at the privately owned manufacture.

It is Patek Philippe’s second Triple Complication within a short period of time. In 2008, the first was the Ref. 5207 with a minute repeater, instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays, and tourbillon; in 2011, the second is the Ref. 5208P with a chronograph, minute repeater, and instantaneous calendar with aperture displays. Eagerly awaited by collectors and fans of complicated watches, it is the manufacture’s first Triple Complication with a chronograph. Moreover, the new Ref. 5208P is one of the very few existing highly complicated watches with a self-winding movement. Finally, it is the first true Grand Complication that integrates silicon-derived Silinvar® components: the revolutionary Pulsomax® escapement and the Spiromax® balance spring. As such, it is an impressive example of how tradition and innovation interact under one roof at Patek Philippe.

In the current collection of Patek Philippe’s Grand Complication wristwatches, the Ref. 5208P ranks second, directly behind the Sky Moon Tourbillon, and before the Ref. 5207 (minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with aperture displays) and the Ref. 5216 (minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date).

Complication after complication

Connoisseurs will appreciate that combining a self-winding minute repeater movement with a chronograph mechanism and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays must have been a huge challenge for the caliber engineers and master watchmakers. The self-winding basic movement with the minute repeater mechanism did not allow the arbors of the chronograph to extend through the strike train from the back. On the other hand, the date, day, and month disks of the calendar must lie directly beneath the dial to assure the best possible legibility of the aperture displays. The only solution was to configure the chronograph between the repeater and calendar mechanisms. But even then, further difficulties presented themselves. The challenge was so monumental that the caliber engineers were relieved to have access to the manufacture’s profound repository of experience. It was this know-how which made it possible to arrange the total of 701 individual parts in such a way that all functions harmonize flawlessly and dependably.

Classic understatement

Elegance and sleek understatement are pivotal hallmarks of Patek Philippe Grand Complication watches. They unite aesthetic design and elaborately engineered mechanisms in a harmonious whole. Legibility is another important criterion; after all, a Patek Philippe watch is always and primarily a timekeeping instrument. Accordingly, it was a considerable challenge to clearly arrange the 12 indications on the charcoal-colored solid-gold sunburst dial with a diameter of less than 40 mm. It shows hours, minutes, and seconds of standard time with a day/night indication; elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours of stopped times; the day, date, month, and year of the perpetual calendar; and not least the moon phases. The architectural result is so convincing that the new Triple Complication Ref. 5208 might at first sight be confused with one of Patek Philippe’s popular Annual Calendars which display the calendar information in three apertures, including a particularly prominent date aperture, at the top of the dial. But the slide in the left-hand side of the case, the monopusher at 2 o’clock, and the two subdials immediately show that more than a perpetual calendar is involved here. And owners who are patient enough to wait until midnight can expect a rare extravaganza, especially on New Year’s Eve. That is when, at midnight, the day, date, month, and year displays instantaneously and simultaneously advance to indicate the next following day, date, month, and year. People who know that movement wheels generally rotate continuously and at a rather leisurely pace can appreciate the fact that this instantaneous change of calendar displays is hardly achievable without an unusually elaborate ensemble of parts.

All of the parts that go into creating a Ref. 5208P are accommodated in a case made of 950 platinum which in itself is unusual. It is not a conventional design with lugs that are integral to the caseband. Instead, it consists of three parts (back, middle, and bezel) that are clenched between and screwed to two clamps. Only this unique construction allowed the lugs to be pierced as resolutely and aesthetically as is the case with the Ref. 5208. They add charisma to a fusion masterpiece in which engineering virtuosity, mechanical ingenuity, finishing, materials, and design come together in harmony. It is worn on a strap for which, too, only the best is good enough: Shiny chocolate-brown, hand-stitched alligator leather with square scales, secured with a 950 platinum foldover clasp.

If you would like to know more about Patek Philippe timepieces please give us a call at 866-240-7366. One of our knowledgeable sales staff will be happy to answer any questions you might have.

Harold Freeman Jewelers is an authorized Patek Philippe dealer.

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The new Breitling Transocean Chronograph

April 27th, 2011

 

FIRST-CLASS TAKEOFF
A brand-new Breitling model is taxiing along the run- way, ready for takeoff. The Breitling Transocean with its modern lines, pure design and refined details admirably reflects the spirit of luxury and prestige of the finest long-haul journeys. Aboard its understated, streamlined fuselage is a high-performance “engine” entirely developed and produced in the Breitling workshops. As a preview celebration of this future classic, the brand with the winged B is introducing a Transocean Chronograph Limited special series fitted with a transparent case- back revealing Breitling Caliber 01 – doubtless the best chronograph movement in its category.

In the 1950s and 1960s, Breitling shared the finest hours in the amazing saga of the conquest of the skies. The famous Navitimer, launched in 1952, rapidly established itself as the cult watch among pilots and other devotees of aviation. The brand supplied onboard chronographs for the propeller planes and subsequently the jet planes of numerous aircraft manufacturers and airlines, thus becoming the “official supplier to world aviation”. In 1958, building upon the reputation for excellence acquired by its instruments for professionals, Breitling launched a new model named Transocean. “Men who have faith in the mighty liners of the sky will trust the Transocean, for behind every Breitling wristwatch lies the experience of aviation precision” – ran the slogan. This high-performance shock-resistant, antimagnetic and super-watertight model was also distinguished by its extremely precise chronometer- certified selfwinding movement. Endowed with an understated and refined design, it soon became a great success and proudly accompanied the boom in transatlantic travel, in an era when the famous Boeing 707, DC-8 and Caravelle aircraft – three symbols of speed, comfort and security – were bringing continents closer together than ever.

THE NEW TRANSOCEAN
Breitling pays tribute to this landmark model in its brand history by launching a new collection also inspired by the spirit of great journeys and luxury long-haul aircraft. While the pure lines of today’s Transocean are strongly reminiscent of the finest classic chronographs of the 1950s and 1960s, the new model reinterprets them in a resolutely contemporary style. The elegant case is distinguished by its perfectly understated design, magnified by a smooth, slender bezel with a beveled profile and streamlined lugs molding the wrist. The epitome of simplicity. The classic round pushpieces, a nod to the first water- resistant pushpieces, lend a subtle vintage touch, while the large “baton” type straight-line hands, highlighted by a luminescent substance, convey a more modern aura. A prime example of clarity and readability, the dial features meticulously refined details such as applied hour-markers, counters that are finely recessed and “snailed” (decorated with a spiral motif), and an 18K gold rendering of the initial B that served for many years as the brand emblem.

At the heart of this model lies an exceptional “engine” also designed to keep precise and reliable time throughout the longest journeys, since the Transocean is equipped with Caliber 01, a high-performance self- winding chronograph movement entirely developed and produced within the Breitling workshop and chronometer certified like all the brand’s movements. A model of discreet luxury, fine craftsmanship and technical perfection, the new Transocean is 100% Swiss made, as indeed are all chronographs and wrist instruments bearing the Breitling signature.

A LIMITED EDITION EPITOMIZING REFINED LUXURY
As a prelude to the launch of the series-produced models, Breitling offers collectors and enthusiasts of milestone watches a special edition of this new first-class chronograph. Issued in worldwide series of 2,000 in steel and 200 in red gold, the Transocean Chronograph Limited is equipped with a polished case and bezel and carries the individual number engraved on the case middle. It is available with two dial variations – Mercury Silver or black – and comes fitted with a choice of leather or crocodile leather strap, or a woven steel bracelet. Contrary to future models in the series, to be endowed with solid case- backs, this limited-edition model water-resistant to 100 meters (330 ft) boasts a transparent back serving to reveal the 100% Breitling-made chronograph caliber with its column wheel and its distinctive architecture. An open window on excellence.

If you would like to know more about this interesting timepiece please drop by our shop or give us a call at 866-240-7366. Harold Freeman Jewelers is an authorized dealer of Breitling watches.

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Patek Philippe Ref. 5270G Grand Complication

April 12th, 2011

 

While Patek Philippe focused on the launch of new chronographs towards the end of 2010, the emphasis is now on other complications. But to the delight of many watch connoisseurs, the year of chronographs has not quite ended yet. One example is the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5270, which for the first time combines the functionality of a perpetual calendar with the new classic chronograph caliber that is crafted entirely in-house and had its global debut in 2009.

Seventy years ago, in 1941, Patek Philippe added chronographs with perpetual calendars to its range of regularly produced timepieces. Since then, they have ranked among the manufacture’s most popular Grand Complication wristwatches. They unite two degrees of difficulty that require many manual steps, mastered to the required degree of perfection only by the most experienced specialists. This is one of the main reasons why complicated Patek Philippe watches are available only in limited quantities. This will also apply to the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5270, which embodies all the features and qualities a connoisseur would expect from a future cult object.
The face of the Patek Philippe  Ref. 5270G follows one of the most venerable traditions of this type of watch: The day and the month in apertures at 12 o’clock, an analog date with an integrated moon-phase display at 6 o’clock, the seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, and the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. For seven decades, this has been the classic layout of Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendars with chronograph mechanisms. Nonetheless, there are a few characteristics that distinguish it from all of its predecessors. The seconds subdial and the 30-minute counter are positioned beneath the horizontal centerline, and two small, round apertures between the analog date and the subsidiary dials accommodate the day/night indication on the left and the leap-year indication on the right. The new chronograph caliber with column wheel control and a horizontal clutch that ticks under the classic Patek Philippe dial was entirely developed and crafted in the workshops in Geneva.

Classic chronograph for the 21st century

The new manually wound chronograph caliber with a perpetual calendar CH 29-535 PS Q; probably incorporates more innovative optimization features than any other traditional chronograph mechanism. For example, the engagement and disengagement action takes place in the traditional manner with the driving, clutch, and chronograph wheels, but instead of the conventional triangular teeth, these wheels have newly calculated and patented toothing profiles that reduce wear, boost efficiency, and prevent tooth tip collisions. Moreover, the engagement of the wheels is not adjusted with customary eccentrics but instead with the slightly eccentric shape of the polished column-wheel cap that very precisely defines the position of the clutch lever at its outermost point. Further optimization features include selfsetting hammers pivoted between jewel bearings, the synchronization of the brake lever with the clutch lever, and the slotted minute-counter cam that prevents the excessively abrupt deceleration of the wheel in response to a reset command. Thanks to this group of six patent-pending inventions, the new caliber is decidedly the most advanced of all traditional chronograph movements. It is also the perfect choice for driving the perpetual calendar, one of the most popular Patek Philippe complications. Indeed, the eternal calendar is of particular significance for the workshops in Geneva.

Perpetual is nearly everlasting

In 1925, Patek Philippe created the world’s first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar: the Ref. 97’975 always correctly displayed day of the week, the month, and the date for months with 31 and 30 days and, depending on the leap-year cycle, February with either 28 or 29 days. But regular production of perpetual calendars did not begin until 1941, precisely 70 years ago. These timepieces, incidentally, were Ref. 1518 chronographs with perpetual calendars featuring display apertures for the day and month as well as rectangular pushers, just like the new Ref. 5270. At international auctions, these watches regularly fetched top prices and still repeatedly break world records.

To add a perpetual calendar to the manually wound basic chronograph caliber CH 29-535 PS it was necessary to develop a totally new mechanical calendar module. It took two years to perfectly match the 1.65-mm high traditional cam-controlled calendar mechanism with 182 parts to the chronograph ensemble. Thus, the perpetual calendar of the Ref. 5270 demonstrates Patek Philippe’s competence in dealing with complex components such as large levers, date, day and month stars, year cams with planetary leap-year wheels, jumper springs, and other intricate parts. Additionally, the many steel parts in the going train and the calendar mechanism stand out not only as regards their precision but also with respect to the artistic finishing that turns them into tiny, aesthetic masterpieces. They exhibit manually satin-finished flanks and straight-grained surfaces as well as carefully chamfered and polished edges – and as opposed to plain flat 45° bevels, the chamfers are slightly convex, a typical Patek Philippe detail. The steel wheels and pinions are also meticulously finished: all teeth and leaves are individually polished by hand using a rotating hardwood disk. This work is done not just for the sake of beauty. Smoothly polished surfaces generate less friction, reduce wear, and transmit kinetic energy more efficiently. The owner of a Ref. 5270 cannot admire the craftsmanship invested in the interest of reliability because it is concealed beneath the dial. But it manifests itself over the years and decades when the buyer of the watch and the generations to which it is handed down have the privilege of experiencing how the value of their timepiece is preserved if not substantially increased.

The dial as an expression of family ties

On the occasion of the 70th anniversary of its first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar and a chronograph, it is not surprising that Patek Philippe wanted to present a successor that reflects the genetic code of the original. These family ties are apparent in the aperture displays for the day of the week and the month at 12 o’clock. The analog date dial at 6 o’clock features an integrated moon-phase display which is so precise that it deviates from the true lunar cycle by merely one day every 122 years. The seconds subdial on the left and the instantaneously jumping 30-minute counter on the right are slightly below the horizontal centerline: this is a characteristic feature of the new manufacture caliber. As was the case 70 years ago, the black-oxidized gold hands for standard time are leafshaped, as in the Ref. 1518 presented in 1941, while the chronograph hand with its counterweight has a slender lancet-style silhouette. The applied baton hour markers in black-oxidized gold are framed by a railway-track minute scale and the chronograph scale. The two small, round apertures for the day/night indication (between 7 and 8 o’clock) and for the leap-year indication (between 4 and 5 o’clock) are hallmarks of the modern perpetual calendar. The fact that the silvery opalescent dial with a visible diameter of 32.4 mm accommodates a total of eleven indications in a well-organized and legible way, testifies to the unique competence and uncompromising timepiece design philosophy of Patek Philippe.

Tradition lives on with a white-gold case of classic beauty

The case of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5270 sets the stage for the complicated caliber CH 29-535 PS Q movement and the clear dial. With a diameter of 41 mm, it is distinctly larger than its predecessors and radiates contemporary generosity and elegance. Crafted from 18K white gold, it is a classic three-part construction manufactured in-house with the traditional cold-forming technique. Placed in highprecision dies, the solid white-gold blanks assume their final shape while being subjected to the force of heavy-duty, high-tonnage presses. Cold-forming is followed by many hours dedicated to machining the bores for the crown, chronograph pushers, correction push pieces, and strap bars as well as for deburring, precision grinding, and mirror polishing; after these operations, the case with the concave bezel and the elegantly curved lugs is finished. The 18K white-gold chronograph pushers exhibit the same slightly rounded rectangular shape as those that adorned the first Patek Philippe wristwatch chronographs with perpetual calendars of the 1940s and 1950s. The strap lugs with the slightly concave flanks were also inspired by these earlier models. The screwed display back with the sapphire-crystal window showcases some of the most attractive elements of mechanical watchmaking artistry: the large Gyromax balance as well as the key levers and wheels of the chronograph mechanism. These beautifully crafted movement parts are among those that can be admired in action. The watch is worn with a hand-stitched matt black alligator strap secured with an 18K white-gold foldover clasp.

A closer look at the new Patek Philippe  Ref. 5270 validates that it is a very complete synopsis of all the experience, technical expertise, and style competence accrued by Patek Philippe in its 172-year manufacture tradition and the history of its chronograph wristwatches with perpetual calendars that began with the Ref. 1518 seventy years ago.

If you would like to know more about the new Patek Philippe Grand Complication wristwatches please drop us a line at  info@haroldfreemanjewelers.com or give us a call at 866-240-7366.

Harold Freeman is an authorized dealer for Patek Philippe and other fine Swiss watch brands.

 

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Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980R in Rose Gold

September 24th, 2010

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5980R in rose gold.

The new Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5980R in rose gold has just arrived. This special timepiece was introduced at Basel World this past Spring. Up until now, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5980 was only available in stainless steel. This beautiful timepiece now comes in 18Kt rose gold on a hand stitched dark brown alligator strap.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus collection was introduced in 1976. Patek Philippe was looking for a strong design and inimitable personality. An inspiration for its design soon emerged: The universal shape of a porthole found on virtually all maritime vessels. The original model was the Ref. 3700/1 in steel. Since then, the Nautilus has established itself as a classic elegant sports watch and the original reference is one of the most sought-after timepieces at auction.
The new Patek Philippe  Nautilus collection showcases the flattering redesign of Patek Philippe’s casually elegant classic. It has gained style through subtle and carefully calculated changes while preserving its original spirit.

If you would like to know more about the new Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5890R please drop us a line at  info@haroldfreemanjewelers.com or give us a call at 866-240-7366.

Harold Freeman is an authorized dealer for Patek Philippe and other fine Swiss watch brands.

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The Patek Philippe World Time Watch

August 27th, 2010

The Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5130R in rose gold.

Elevated to cult status by seasoned travelers and collectors of extraordinary mechanical watches, the Patek Philippe World Time features two rotating discs  that simultaneously and continuously display the time in all 24 time zones. The ingenious complication, in the 1930s, took a new step forward in terms of functionality in 2000. A unique mechanism now enables it’s owner, when changing time zones, to correct all the displays collectively by a single pressure on a push button, without this affecting the rate of the accuracy of the movement by even a second. This patented system is exclusive to Patek Philippe’s World Time watches. The Reference 4130 combines an elegant round case in the Calatrava style with a dial that is inspired by the dials of the first world Time watches, but is subtly reinterpreted. It’s center is adorned with a guilloched sunburst pattern.  The ring shaped hour hand is also reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s original World Time models and is reserved exclusively for this type of timepiece. The case diameter of the Reference 5130 is a contemporary  39.5 mm. The Patek Philippe Reference 5130 comes on alligator strap with a fold over clasp.

The Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5131G

Wanderlust begins from the first glance at the dial of the magnificent Reference 5131, whose city ring rotates around a colorful map in cloisonne enamel.  The timepiece in yellow or white gold with it’s bezel engraved with the words “Patek Philippe” and “Geneve”, perpetuates a rare artistic tradition in keeping with the history  of the Patek Philippe world time watch originally introduced in 1930s-1940s. The precious, handcrafted dial, created individually using a centuries old technique, is reserved for timepieces produced in a limited series. It transforms each watch into a unique work of art. The version in yellow gold shows a map of Europe and the Americas, while the model in white gold, introduced in 2009, depicts Europe and Asia. The Patek Philippe world Time Reference 5131 comes with a fold over clasp and a sapphire exhibition back allowing it’s owner to view it’s mechanical movement.

The Patek Philippe 5131 is made in limited numbers and is sure to be highly sought after by collectors the world wide.

A closer look at the Patek Philippe World Time mechanism.

Not to be overlooked, the World Time self-winding  caliber  240 HU is a work of art. Superbly simple,the setting mechanism is based on an ingenious coupling system for which Patek Philippe filled Patent number CH 693 191 in 2000.  A single button simultaneously advances the city disc and the hour hand for local time, without disturbing the rate accuracy of the movement by even a second.

Harold Freeman Jewelers is a Patek Philippe Authorized Dealer . If you would like to know more about the Patek Philippe World Time,  please stop by our shop or give us a call at 866-240-7366. One of our expert associates will be happy to answer any questions you might have.

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