Patek Philippe 5990/1A Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph
The Nautilus model and the Travel Time Function
The combination of the Travel Time function and chronograph necessitated the redesign of the Nautilus case and the development of a new movement. Thanks to its characteristic porthole contour with two lateral hinges, the Nautilus case was ideal for this venture. While the right-hand hinge protects the crown, the one on the opposite side was replaced with the plus and minus correctors. Because they precisely follow the original outline of the case, the unmistakable Nautilus design is preserved. What seems so self-evident as regards the silhouette proved to be a formidable challenge for the case-makers: each additional pusher requires a separate bore in the case, yet it still has to be water-resistant to 120 meters (12 bar). But the new Patek Philippe 5990/1A Nautilus watch fulfills all water-
The Dial: New and Decidedly Nautilus
Yet another new Patek Philippe movement
an innovative disk clutch, is supplemented with the Travel Time mechanism. This ingenious device dates back to a patent granted to Patek Philippe in 1959. It not only facilitates the bidirectional adjustment of local time in one-hour increments, but is also totally isolated from the going train when time-zone settings are changed. This prevents adverse effects on the amplitude of the balance and the rate accuracy of the watch. The date display coupled with local time (originally an aperture date at 3 o’clock in the Ref. 5980 Nautilus chronograph model) has been repositioned to 12 o’clock as an analog date, and the monocounter at 6 o’clock was converted into a 60-minute counter. This metamorphosis was implemented with 47 additional parts. Nonetheless, the movement is merely 0.3 mm higher than its predecessor. Not least, this is due to the escapement in which the voluminous over-coiled Breguet balance spring was replaced with the patented Patek Philippe hairspring made of Silinvar®. Thanks to its intelligent geometry, it oscillates in one plane – yet symmetrically and isochronously. The remaining features of the movement are well known. The watch is wound automatically by a heavy central rotor in 21K gold. The Gyromax® balance introduced by Patek Philippe 60 years ago beats with a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 hertz). The immaculate finish of the movement includes Geneva striping on the chamfered bridges and Geneva circular graining on the rotor. The stunning degree of peerless perfection in craftsmanship can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back, a feast for the eyes of genuine watch lovers. Inspired by the enthusiatic reception to its casually elegant Nautilus chronograph, Patek Philippe has now endowed this model with the highly popular time zone function, thus expanding the collection of complicated Nautilus watches with an attractive newcomer. The new Patek Philippe 5990/1A Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph replaces the Nautilus chronograph Ref. 5980/1A with a steel bracelet, which was first presented in 2006 on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection.
Harold Freeman Jewelers is an Authorized Patek Philippe dealer located in the Tampa Bay area of Florida.